Indian artisans have quietly shaped luxury fashion for decades, creating embroidery, leatherwork, mirrorwork and jewellery for leading global brands. Their expertise is increasingly receiving public recognition through institutions such as Mumbai’s Chanakya International, whose work highlights India’s distinctive craft heritage and its importance to haute couture.

Chanakya supports 1,400 artisans, including some from 13th-generation craft families, and has revived techniques such as Mughal-era chaand jaal lace. Collaborations with Dior and other luxury houses demonstrate the value of this knowledge, while the Kalhath Institute and Jaipur’s Gem Palace help preserve related traditions. However, growing visibility has also intensified concerns about cultural appropriation and insufficient credit, including criticism of Ralph Lauren and Fendi for using styles associated with Indian craftsmanship.