Newquay, once dubbed "Britain's Magaluf" for its stag- and hen-do reputation, appears to be shedding its rowdy image as boutique hotels and upmarket dining move in. The Cornish surf town introduced an "inappropriate clothing" ban in 2009 outlawing mankinis and inflatable props after becoming notorious for under-age drinking, strip clubs and anti-social behaviour, and reports of such incidents have since fallen sharply, prompting speculation that the resort is going upmarket.

The clearest sign of change is the new Nici hotel, which opened in July on the site of the former Victoria hotel overlooking Great Western Beach, offering suites from around £500 a night, an Italian-inspired restaurant, a spa and 82 pastel-toned rooms in a Miami art deco style. Prices run high, with sparkling wine from £69 and lobster spaghetti at £55, though guests get free access to surf lessons, paddleboards and other beach activities. Despite the hotel's polish, the writer found the town itself still a mixed bag, with a busy, down-to-earth high street, though noted "green shoots" of gentrification elsewhere.