How a generation of record-setting guides died in a disaster that killed a climbing legend
Six Nepali mountain guides, including celebrated British-Nepali climber Nirmal "Nims" Purja, were killed in an avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak last week. Their deaths represent a devastating loss for Nepal's mountaineering community, as the group had collectively achieved feats once thought impossible, including summiting Everest dozens of times, scaling 8,000m peaks without supplemental oxygen, and climbing K2 in winter, elevating global recognition of Nepali guides who were previously regarded merely as aides.
Purja, 43, led the ten-member international expedition and was renowned for climbing the world's 14 highest peaks in just over six months. Fellow victims included Kili Pemba Sherpa, 46, who had just completed his own "Grand Slam" of all 14 eight-thousanders and helped achieve the first winter ascent of K2 in 2021; Pur Bahadur Gurung, 37, one of only 100 Nepali guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association; Gyaljen Sherpa, known for climbing Kanchenjunga three times in one season; Nima Sherpa, 36; and Nawang Thindu Sherpa, one of Nepal's rising young guides.
In short
- Avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak killed six elite Nepali mountain guides
- Victims included record-breaking climber Nirmal Purja and K2 winter-ascent team members
- Deaths mark huge loss for Nepal's mountaineering community and its global reputation
Explained simply
Eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains in the world that rise above 8,000 metres, including Everest, K2 and Broad Peak. Climbing them is especially demanding because of the altitude, extreme weather and thin air; some climbers use bottled oxygen, while others try to climb without it.
Nepali guides, including many Sherpas, help organise and lead high-altitude climbs, carrying equipment and supporting clients on dangerous routes. Their skill and experience have been central to major expeditions, though they have often received less recognition than the climbers they assist.
Nirmal “Nims” Purja became widely known for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in just over six months. Other Nepali guides have set records of their own, including winter climbs and repeated ascents, bringing greater attention to their achievements and to their role in mountaineering.