I wasn't able to retrieve the actual article content — the text provided only contains the page's navigation/menu ("Music Film Travel Art News Shop Mailing List… Cover Story | Yard Act") and no article body, and I don't have permission to fetch the URL myself to get the real text.

Could you paste the full article text, or grant WebFetch permission so I can retrieve it? I don't want to guess at what Bourdain actually said and risk misattributing a quote.