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World’s No. 1 restaurant crowned as contest comes under increasing scrutiny
Asador Etxebarri in Spain’s Basque Country has been named the world’s top restaurant by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, with Gaggan in Bangkok second and Alchemist in Copenhagen third. The ranking can boost restaurants’ visibility, bookings and revenue, but chefs are questioning how much influence the contest has over the industry and what it rewards.
India returned to the top 50 for the first time since 2004, with Masque at No. 26 and NAAR at No. 49; two restaurants in mainland China also made the list for the first time since 2021. Slovenian chef Ana Roš said the ranking increasingly rewards visibility and promotion, while Singapore chef Ivan Brehm argued that lists shape spending, investment and career aspirations. The 50 said its results reflect expert opinion and that it is not a regulator; Roš’s comments had received more than 10,400 likes by Friday.
In short
- Asador Etxebarri was named the world’s top restaurant.
- Chefs are questioning the influence and incentives of rankings.
- India and mainland China returned to the top 50.
Steelman: both sides, in good faith
The strongest fair case each way — we don't pick a winner.
The case for
Supporters can argue that the ranking offers diners a useful guide to restaurants around the world and gives recognised kitchens valuable visibility, bookings and investment. Because it reflects expert opinion rather than claiming to regulate the industry, it can be seen as one influential perspective among many, while new entries from India and China suggest it can also broaden attention beyond familiar destinations.
The case against
Critics can argue that a high-profile list does more than guide diners: it can redirect spending, investment and career opportunities towards the restaurants it recognises. If visibility and promotion increasingly shape results, the ranking may reward the ability to attract attention as much as the quality of the food, giving a private contest considerable influence over an industry it does not oversee.
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